Spring Series: Keeping your basement dry part three
Part Three: Sump Pumps (Your Last Line of Defence)
Welcome to the third and final installment of our spring series! If you missed the first two parts we recommend that you go back and read them first. They cover the basics of your water management system and how to maintain it. You can find Part One here and Part Two here. But what if your water management system fails? These systems are designed to keep water out, but what happens if water does get in? Enter: sump pumps. Sump pumps are your last line of defence against unwanted water. Read on to learn all about sump pumps and why they’re so important!
Submersible vs Unsubmersible
Let’s start off with the basics. There are two types of sump pump: submersible and non-submersible. The distinction is just as you’d expect: submersible sump pumps sit under the water level in your sump pit while non-submersible pumps sit above the water. Submersible pumps can sit underwater because they are a sealed unit. They don’t take up as much room in your pit, so they’re great for those who have limited space. They’re also quieter than their non-submersible counterparts simply because they sit below the surface and the sound is muffled by the water. The trade-off for this convenience is that submersible pumps are often more expensive. With non-submersible pumps, the motor is open and sits above the water, protruding into the sump room. While it does take up more room, its open motor allows for maintenance and repairs, meaning that if something goes wrong you can fix it instead of having to replace the entire pump system. Another key advantage to these pumps is that you have much more freedom and control over the float settings.
What is the float?
The float is a plastic ball that measures the water level in your sump pit. Its job is to tell the pump when to turn on and off.
Occasionally we’ll get a call about a broken sump pump and, upon diagnosis, the motor has burned out due to age or standard wear and tear. However, compared to our other pump related calls, this is fairly rare. Most of our calls about ‘broken’ sump pumps are due to problems with the float.
Floats aren’t standard across all pumps; there are four types of floats commonly used in residential houses: three for submersible pumps, and one for non-submersible pumps.
The standard-arm float
The most common float is the submersible pump’s standard-arm float. The arm is attached to the pump’s on/off switch. When the pit is empty the water level is down, and the arm rests down the side of the pump. As the pit fills with water the arm reaches up, and when it reaches high enough it closes the circuit, starting the pump. As the water drains the float arm comes back down, and when the float reaches the side once again the pump turns off.
The problem with this float is that when the arm swings out it can get caught on other things in the sump hole, or the sump pit itself. If it gets stuck in the off position, your pump will not come on and your house will flood. If it gets stuck in the on position, the motor will burn itself out after running constantly while the pit is dry. Then, when the water does rise, your basement will flood.
straight-rise submersible float
Another type of float for a submersible pump is a straight rise float. Unlike the standard float arm, which swings out, this one slides straight up and down on a rod. When it reaches the top of the rod it flips the switch to the ‘on’ position. The water drains, lowering the float, and when the float reaches the bottom of the rod, it flips the switch off again. These are much more reliable than the standard-arm floats because they only move up and down, eliminating the risk of getting caught or stuck.
The disadvantage to these systems is that, since the pump is submerged, the rod can only be 6” tall. This means that these systems activate and drain the most often. So, while your pump will be more reliable, it will have a shorter life span.
The magnetic float
This is the third float available for submersible pumps. A magnetic float will rise up with the water level and, when it reaches the top, the magnet activates a switch on the inside of the pump. When the water level lowers, the magnet engages the off switch at the bottom of the pump. The best thing about the magnetic float is that the switch is completely sealed and built into the pump housing, so there’s very low failure rate. These are the most reliable floats on the market. The downside is that, since all of the parts (including the switches) are built in, if something does go wrong they can’t easily be repaired and often the entire unit must be replaced. They also have a high activation rate, which shortens the lifespan of the pump, and they are the most expensive of all the floats listed here.
The straight-rise non-submersible float
Straight-rise non-submersible floats work exactly the same as their submersible counterparts. The key difference is that having a pump that sits out of the water allows for a much longer rod. The rod on this float can be two feet tall instead of 6 inches (see images below). What this means is that, when your pump turns on, it pumps out the most amount of water per cycle. It also has the widest range for setting activation and deactivation (which essentially means that you can choose the level the water reaches before the pump is activated and choose when it turns off). It’s also a fairly inexpensive pump in comparison to the ones discussed above. The motor isn’t sealed, so components can be cleaned or repaired without having to replace the entire unit. The downside is that, as a non-submersible pump, it doesn’t have a water barrier and so it’s slightly louder. These also take up the most space, so it may not be feasible for smaller sump pits.
Left: Submersible pump with a 6 inch float rod
Right: Non-submersible pump with a 24 inch float rod
Recognizing a failing pump before it fails
Now that you know about the types of pumps and floats, let’s get to the information you really came for: recognizing the signs that your sump pump might fail!
It runs when the pit is empty
If you notice that your pump is running for long periods of time, even when your pit isn’t full, it’s time to have it serviced. If the pump is running constantly it’s only a matter of time before it burns out the motor, and unless you’re checking on it daily (or several times daily in some areas), you likely won’t notice that it’s broken until it’s too late.
As we discussed above, the most likely culprit is a snagged float. Check your float to make sure it hasn’t caught on another component or the pit itself. If the float looks fine, it may just be a broken switch or rod, both of which our team can repair fairly quickly (depending on the type of float of course).
Corrosion
Do you have ground water with high mineral content? If so, keep an eye on the condition of your pump. Calcium, iron and lime can wreak havoc on your sump pump system, and if it goes unnoticed the corrosion can eat away at it until the system fails.
Luckily, this is a relatively slow process, so it should be easy to catch. Unfortunately, there is not much that can be done to prevent this kind of wear, and you may just need to replace your pump a little more often. As crumby as that is, it beats the heck out of coming home to a basement-sized indoor swimming pool!
Fire and Melting
I’m sure it goes without saying that, if you see flames on your pump, it’s time to call for repairs. But if there’s an electrical problem and the motor (literally) burns out while you’re at work you may not notice right away.
Sometimes pumps overheat, especially when they’re working hard through particularly wet seasons. During these times, keep your nostrils open as well as your eyes. While you’re probably used to some smells in your sump room (damp, musty air tends to linger in there in the spring, even with ventilation), pay attention for less familiar smells. If something smells off, look for signs of damage and test your pump to make sure it’s still working!
Age
We don’t often get calls for pumps that have passed on naturally due to age, but it does happen from time to time. How old is your pump? A typical pump will last you from 3 years (with heavy use) to 7 years (with light use). They can last longer, but they’ll become less reliable the older they get. You just never know when they’re going to quit, and for a device that’s sole purpose it to be ever vigilant against incoming water, reliability is key! If you have a geriatric pump, it may be time to think about replacement!
Noise
As you know, non-submersible pumps will be louder than submersible ones. Whatever noise level your pump typically operates at, if you notice an increase, it’s worth getting it checked out. Your pump may be overworked and at risk of burning out!
Size matters
When it comes to sump pumps, size matters. If you have a large pit or a high volume of water coming in and you have an undersized pump, you run the risk of burning out the motor. Even a relatively new pump can only accommodate as much volume as its size will allow, and if you have a small pump you may simply be asking too much of it.
So, should you just buy the largest pump available to be on the safe side? Well, no, that’s not good either. If your pump is oversized it takes up much more room and you’ll run the risk of catching the float on other components, or the pit itself. When selecting a pump for a client, we do research into how much ground water enters the home during wet seasons and we inspect the size of the pit. We balance the amount of space available with the volume of incoming water to select a pump that is perfectly suited for your home!